DATE: 11-19-2024 TIME: 12:37 – 5:13 ~ 4:30
A number of the steps on pages 10-15 through 17 have already been completed. Specifically the battery channels and the steps associated with the F-1036 and F-0135 and bell crank related parts so at this stage I was primarily concerned with dimpling, countersinking and then priming the tailcone parts before final riveting.
Neither dimpling not machine countersinking can be done correctly without first removing any vinyl and deburring any drilled holes. The manual says that it isn’t necessary to deburr punched holes but definitely any that are final drilled. Also, edges need to be properly deburred as some of them can be quite rough. So my day began with removing the vinyl from any surface that was going to be primed and from around any hole that was to be dimpled of machine countersunk.
The snapshots in this gallery are all about removing the vinyl as needed and then scuffing and cleaning all of the surfaces that need to be primed with the P60G2 primer. The last part of this process was deburring the holes and edges prior to dimpling and machine countersinking. In reality, the countersinking can be done, and was done, prior to machine countersinking, but not dimpling.
While we were cleaning and scuffing the F-1074, front top skin, I discovered a scratch on the underside I felt warranted removal so there are some snapshots here of me doing that. My tech counselor, when I talked to him about scratches he said to be sure to always sand the scratch in the same direction as the grain of the aluminum sheet.
Once the vinyl removal, scuffing and cleaning of the tailcone components was completed then came the dimpling and machine countersinking. I always test my countersink on a piece of scrap material as close as to the pieces I am going to countersink as I can find so that I can be certain I won’t countersink too deeply and risk enlarging the rivet hole.
